The Redemption Handwelted Oxford Cap-Toe Shoes in French Box Calf (Last R01)
Redemption
noun: redemption; plural noun: redemptions
1. the action of saving or being saved from sin, error, or evil.
In April 2021, we experienced an incident that rocked Archibald to its very core. Thanks to the help of one of our customers, we discovered the fraudulent actions and duplicity of a shoemaker we had, until that point, trusted and built multiple collections of dress shoes and sneakers alongside. They made a unilateral decision in April of 2020 (during the early days of Covid-19) to change the product being delivered without informing anyone and did so during the first iteration of our Archibald, Naked campaign.
After investigating the matter, having the maker admit to his unilateral action, and attempting to find a solution with him, we immediately informed the Archibald community and, over the next months, implemented procedures to make affected customers whole again. The incident and subsequent fallout left a black mark and considerable impact on Archibald both financially and in terms of the disrepute the shoemaker's actions brought on the brand - endangering not just our very existence but also the goodwill that was built over a 7-year period by the many master-craftsmen we work with each of whom delivered on their promise honestly.
It also meant growing as a team, a business, and a brand. It meant turning eyes inward and double-checking all processes with all the craftsmen we work with, and more so, engaging help for any new line we venture into. It highlighted other errors that were made and meant new approaches to systems, processes, regular checks, and not being naive enough to ignore the potential for human flaws. The last time around, we entered a niche category attempting to use our model to disrupt with little experience. We did so trusting the craftsmen - our partners - (as we had done successfully many times before) without the necessary third-party help, advice, and knowledge - it was naive, immature, and a disaster waiting to happen. To make matters worse, we hyped the product on the back of great initial customer feedback, and whilst the product being hyped was the intended spec (before his change, but still a product we could have vastly improved on), we exposed ourselves without adequate due diligence and instead relied on the fortune we experienced with some of our other suppliers to fool ourselves that we had worked this out and had an unbeatable proposition.
This time we shall make no such mistake.
We have been fortunate enough to have a guardian angel with extensive knowledge and a true passion for the product graciously help us develop our new line of hand-welted shoes. This time, we will rebuild purely with the facts (bullet points below) and offer no opinion, no elaborate copy, and will leave nothing ambiguous or open to interpretation.
We hope you join us on our path to right the wrong we allowed, our approach to redemption.
##Handmade in Italy
The first craftsman we have partnered with for our Redemption Handwelted collection operates a small shoemaking atelier in the Montegranaro region of Italy. Montegranaro is a fairly industrial part of Italy, known for shoemaking. The advantage of this placement meant smaller artisans who were not fully vertically integrated and preferred to focus on the highest end and most traditional forms of handmade shoes could work together in a guild like system that is very similar to the one that operates in Sabae, Japan and creates our Japanese eyewear. As with Japan, the selection of which artisans are chosen to take care of each process on a given product is made by the lead craftsmen, in this case, an individual we are very proud and fortunate to partner with. One could say this seems like deja vu, for it is once again a father and son team of craftsman leading the project, however this time something is different. Not only do they rarely engage in making footwear with alternative constructions, each detail is openly and widely discussed and are eager to add to their vast knowledge to improve the end product. It is that dedication to continuous improvement, over 80 years of combined experience spanning two generations, as well as the openness to discourse and opinions with the person who we were very fortunate to join us in the execution of this endeavour that grew our confidence that this was the right fit. They understand Archibald, understand what we are trying to do and our incredibly proud about each product they deliver and representing true artistry.
##French box calfskin, oak-bark tanned soles, all in the hands of a master to create a beautiful daily-use classic oxford cap-toe.
Created in 1838, Tannerie d'Annonay, renowned for its know-how, became a worldwide benchmark in the box calf tannage. This process gives the leather durability, wear resistance, transparency, and beauty highly prized by luxury shoe and leather goods designers the world over. The tannery also has a deep commitment to sustainable practices and guarantees supplies of skins that are safe, ethical, and respectful of animal welfare, ensuring for 2022, 100% traceability of each individual skin.
##Hand-welting is a process that the luxury stalwarts often reserve for bespoke shoe-making, and if done correctly with the right attention it leads to a different footwear experience.
To be able to hand-welt a shoe, only the highest quality materials must be used, and the process has to be handled by someone highly skilled, experienced, and, as we have learned in the past, honorable. It is extremely labor, and time-intensive, and only high-grade materials can withstand channels being cut into them for the holdfast, where the stitches are driven through by hand. Put simply, hand-welting is a return to old-world craftsmanship by true artisans.
• Handmade in Montegranaro, Italy
• Construction: Handwelted
• Handclicked
• Handlasted with Leather Toe Puff and Stiffeners (Solettificio Melan - Cuoio Morbido Olio)
• Sole stitched by hand in the waist and by machine in the forefront
• Upper - Tanneries D'Annonay - Voucalou Box Calf
• Lining Counter - Tanneries D'Annonay - Voucalou Box Calf
• Lining Front - Foder Italia - Veg Tanned Lining
• Insole - Dusini (Cuoio ingrassato 5.5 mm)
• Welt - Guardolificio Mancinelli - (Guardolo Piano Goodyear 2.5 mm)
• Leather filling - leftover suedes from various tanneries 1.4 mm
• Fiddleback filling - leftover leather
• Sole - J&FJ Baker - Oak Bark Tanned, made using shaved bends 8 iron
• Sole Edge - Black
• Sole Bottom - Black and Green (waist)
• Heel construction - Seamless heel
• Heel layers - Dusini (3 layers of 5mm)
• Final Heel Layer (Leather + Rubber) - Alcantara Sottotacchi 7mm
• Laces - Oval -Round waxed laces for 3mm holes
• Metal Toe Tap - Triumph Brass (Optional)
• Last R01
• Fit: E (EE available upon request via R02W Last)
• Dust-bag included
• Use a horsehair brush to remove any dust
• Polish in small circles with a cotton cloth to restore a soft shine
• Saphir Medaille D'Or shoehorn in real horn included
