The Redemption Handwelted Oxford Cap-Toe Shoes in French Box Calf (Last R01)
Redemption
noun: redemption; plural noun: redemptions
1. the action of saving or being saved from sin, error, or evil.
In April 2021, we experienced an incident that rocked Archibald to its very core. Thanks to the help of one of our customers, we discovered the fraudulent actions and duplicity of a shoemaker we had, until that point, trusted for many years. Through this experience, we developed the Redemption series—our answer to creating the perfect shoe.
##Handmade in Italy
The first craftsman we have partnered with for our Redemption Handwelted collection operates a small shoemaking atelier in the Montegranaro region of Italy. Montegranaro is a fairly industrial part of Italy, known for shoemaking. The advantage of this placement meant smaller artisans who were not fully vertically integrated and preferred to focus on the highest end and most traditional forms of handmade shoes could work together in a guild like system that is very similar to the one that operates in Sabae, Japan and creates our Japanese eyewear. As with Japan, the selection of which artisans are chosen to take care of each process on a given product is made by the lead craftsmen, in this case, an individual we are very proud and fortunate to partner with. One could say this seems like deja vu, for it is once again a father and son team of craftsman leading the project, however this time something is different. Not only do they rarely engage in making footwear with alternative constructions, each detail is openly and widely discussed and are eager to add to their vast knowledge to improve the end product. It is that dedication to continuous improvement, over 80 years of combined experience spanning two generations, as well as the openness to discourse and opinions with the person who we were very fortunate to join us in the execution of this endeavour that grew our confidence that this was the right fit. They understand Archibald, understand what we are trying to do and our incredibly proud about each product they deliver and representing true artistry.
##French box calfskin, oak-bark tanned soles, all in the hands of a master to create a beautiful daily-use classic oxford cap-toe.
Created in 1838, Tannerie d'Annonay, renowned for its know-how, became a worldwide benchmark in the box calf tannage. This process gives the leather durability, wear resistance, transparency, and beauty highly prized by luxury shoe and leather goods designers the world over. The tannery also has a deep commitment to sustainable practices and guarantees supplies of skins that are safe, ethical, and respectful of animal welfare, ensuring for 2022, 100% traceability of each individual skin.
##Hand-welting is a process that the luxury stalwarts often reserve for bespoke shoe-making, and if done correctly with the right attention it leads to a different footwear experience.
To be able to hand-welt a shoe, only the highest quality materials must be used, and the process has to be handled by someone highly skilled, experienced, and, as we have learned in the past, honorable. It is extremely labor, and time-intensive, and only high-grade materials can withstand channels being cut into them for the holdfast, where the stitches are driven through by hand. Put simply, hand-welting is a return to old-world craftsmanship by true artisans.
• Handmade in Montegranaro, Italy
• Construction: Handwelted
• Handclicked
• Handlasted with Leather Toe Puff and Stiffeners (Solettificio Melan - Cuoio Morbido Olio)
• Sole stitched by hand in the waist and by machine in the forefront
• Upper - Tanneries D'Annonay - Voucalou Box Calf
• Lining Counter - Tanneries D'Annonay - Voucalou Box Calf
• Lining Front - Foder Italia - Veg Tanned Lining
• Insole - Dusini (Cuoio ingrassato 5.5 mm)
• Welt - Guardolificio Mancinelli - (Guardolo Piano Goodyear 2.5 mm)
• Leather filling - leftover suedes from various tanneries 1.4 mm
• Fiddleback filling - leftover leather
• Sole - J&FJ Baker - Oak Bark Tanned, made using shaved bends 8 iron
• Sole Edge - Black
• Sole Bottom - Black and Green (waist)
• Heel construction - Seamless heel
• Heel layers - Dusini (3 layers of 5mm)
• Final Heel Layer (Leather + Rubber) - Alcantara Sottotacchi 7mm
• Laces - Oval -Round waxed laces for 3mm holes
• Metal Toe Tap - Triumph Brass (Optional)
• Last R01
• Fit: E (EE available upon request via R02W Last)
• Dust-bag included
• Use a horsehair brush to remove any dust
• Polish in small circles with a cotton cloth to restore a soft shine
• Saphir Medaille D'Or shoehorn in real horn included