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Deerskin

Individual material

Deerskin

Pebbled deerskin that is surprisingly supple, soft, strong, and carries a unique natural texture. This leather is the product of heritage Italian tanning processes applied to carefully selected hides, with an average of 40% or less per batch making the initial cut.

Made by
La Biesseuno

What it is

This pebbled deerskin begins with wild North American white-tailed deer (Odocoileus virginianus borealis). Unlike domesticated cattle, raised within a controlled environment, these deer live and range freely outdoors. Their hides carry natural imperfections: differences in grain, small scars, and irregularities that develop over the course of the animal's life. Instead of correcting the surface to ensure each skin looks identical after tanning, La Biesseuno ensures it preserves the natural character.

The raw material is heavily graded, with only about 40% of the skins in the original batches offered by American suppliers meeting the production standard La Biesseuno accepts. The first selection occurs in North America, eliminating hides whose condition or quality makes them unsuitable. The hides are a by-product of regulated, seasonal North American deer hunting, primarily occurring in November and December.

A typical skin measures only 8–10 square feet (approximately 0.75–0.93 m²) and is finished leather specified at approximately 1.1–1.3 mm thick. Compared with a large bovine hide, there simply isn't much material to work with.

The selected hides undergo a mixed chrome-and-tannin tanning, followed by specialist processes applied in Italy: retanning, dyeing, fatliquoring. Fatliquoring is particularly important to the finished character of the pebble deerskin La Biesseuno produces: oils and lubricating agents are introduced directly to the fibre structure, helping the leather remain supple and flexible rather than becoming dry or rigid through processing. The finishing afterward protects and refines the surface without burying the natural grain beneath it with a heavy artificial coating.

Why we chose it

Deerskin presents as one of those rare leathers whose first touch is slightly deceptive. It’s surprisingly soft, light, and pliable. It doesn’t present as a heavier, more substantial material normally associated with footwear. Yet beneath that softness is a remarkably resilient leather. Its fibre structure produces leather that is exceptionally supple and flexible, naturally breathable and capable of stretching and recovering with wear, while retaining impressive strength for its weight. It feels almost improbably delicate without behaving like a fragile leather after use.

For footwear, deerskin endurance is immediately apparent. Where a calfskin often requires time and use to break it in around the foot, deerskin has an almost glove-like pliability from the get-go. It moves easily, conforms instantly, and adds little to no weight while remaining durable enough for demanding applications.

It naturally possesses a pronounced, irregular pebbled character. On closer inspection, deerskin surface is not perfectly uniform. The grain changes subtly across the skin. That distinguishes it from calf leathers whose pebbling and marbling can be created or made more uniform with mechanical technique. The distinction matters. An embossing plate can produce thousands of square metres of leather with the same pattern. Natural deer grain refuses that kind of perfection, and no two hides are completely alike.

La Biesseuno

Made by

La Biesseuno

Deerskin belongs to a wider making practice. Return to La Biesseuno to understand the maker, its place and why Archibald chose to work with it.

Return to the partner

Material, maker, product

The material points back to the people who made it.

The parent relationship remains part of the material record. Continue to the maker, the wider partners index or the workshops and places behind Archibald products.